#ClothisCulture: Afghan war rugs exhibit in New London

Hand knotted rug with images of guns, helicopters and grenades in alternating rows

The Lyman Allyn Museum in New London, CT is hosting an exhibit of Afghan war rugs this spring.

Hand knotted rug with images of guns, helicopters and grenades in alternating rows

Through decades of invasion, occupation, and internal oppression, Afghan women within the country and displaced in refugee camps elsewhere have modernized the images they depict through their traditionally crafted rugs for commercial sale.

Maps, weapons, army tanks, and portraits of kings, khans, and military leaders are among the new motifs that began appearing in otherwise traditional carpets in the 1970s and proliferated after the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979 and again following the post-September 11 intervention by the United States.

Quoted from the exhibition page at the University of Rochester.

There are many more examples through a search of the term "war rugs" on Pinterest. As with most craft products and products deemed "women's work", I have seen 0 examples in my short research for this article that provide name of the weaver(s) or any other identifying information about the rug.

More on the war rug phenomenon here.

In apparel, there is often a uptick in utility dressing, camouflage, and military uniform detailing when a society goes to war. 

During the Arab Spring, Jeremy Scott showed a clever collection spangled with die-cut paillettes in the shape of machine guns. Other looks from the collection featured a take on the traditional kaffiyeh, veiling, and non-figural scroll motifs. Many other designers that year had obvious Middle Eastern apparel influences in their collections as well.

Model walking down runway wearing short sleeveless dress with machine-fun shaped embellishments and thigh-high boots.

Jeremy Scott, Spring 2013, via Vogue

For me, the fascinating thing about art and craft is the feedback loop between cultures and across history. I'm less interested in reproductions, and more in interpretation. These rugs interpret current events through a familiar textile medium. Rug artist Faig Ahmed has done the same with digital image manipulation. The artisans mentioned below interpret their craft through a modern fashion lens. In a world of open borders, conservation must be current, not conservative.

Modern Afghani craft:

  • Zarif is a high end, slow fashion line produced by artisans in Kabul.
  • Aayenda is a beautiful jewelry line crafted in a Kabul social enterprise.

More rug lore: 

From Combat to Carpet, through May 14, 2017 at the Lyman Allyn. Directions and info here.

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